Who it's for
Good fit
- Commuters and city riders in sneakers or work shoes
- Riders who tried toe clips and found them fiddly to enter
- Touring riders who want to pull up on climbs without cycling shoes
Look elsewhere if
- Boots and shoes over 12 inches around (choose XL)
- Pedals without a metal cage, including most modern pinned flats
- Racers who want the firm, precise hold of clipless pedals
Compatibility
- Pedals
- Metal cage pedals that accept toe clips and straps, such as the MKS Sylvan Touring
- Shoes
- Non-cleated shoes up to about 12 inches around the widest point
- Tools
- 4mm Allen key for the bracket, plus a screwdriver or wrench for the mounting hardware
- Toe clips
- Not used: the strap replaces clip and toe strap
Pros and cons
Pros
- Self-tightening: no buckle to pull or release
- Works with almost any flat-soled shoe
- Fine tension adjustment with a 4mm Allen key
- No cleats and no toe-clip holes needed on a metal cage pedal
Cons
- Too short for winter boots and large shoes
- Specified for metal cage pedals, not modern pinned flats
- Less firm than a clip with a tight strap for hard sprinting
- Getting in takes a few rides to learn
What a power strap is
A power strap is a diagonal band that holds the front of your shoe to the pedal using your foot angle instead of a buckle or cleat. The Power Grips standard set is the original version, made by MRP, and fits ordinary shoes up to 12 inches around the widest point.
The strap runs from one corner of the pedal to the opposite corner. Point your toe inward and the strap lines up with your foot, leaving room to slide in. Straighten your foot and the strap twists across the top of your shoe, pulling tight. Roll your heel outward and back and it lets go.
That makes it a halfway house between flat pedals and toe clips: your foot stays put over bumps, but you leave with a natural foot movement.
Who the standard size suits
The standard set suits most adult sneakers, casual shoes, and flat-soled work shoes. Power Grips’ rule is to measure around the widest part of the shoe: up to 12 inches, buy standard; over 12 inches, buy the XL set.
Standard is the better choice whenever it fits, because a shorter strap leaves less slack and holds a normal shoe more securely.
Setting up the strap and tension
Getting the tension right takes a few short rides. Start a little loose and tighten gradually.
- Fit the straps. Remove any toe clips, toe straps and front reflectors. Bolt the strap ends to the pedal diagonally using the supplied hardware, following the instruction sheet for left and right pedals.
- Set an initial tension. Using a 4mm Allen key on the micro-adjustable bracket, set the strap so you can slide your shoe in with your toe angled inward.
- Test it standing still. With the bike against a wall, slide in, straighten your foot and try to lift your heel. The shoe should stay put.
- Ride a short loop. Practice entering and exiting a dozen times on a quiet street or parking lot.
- Fine-tune. If your foot pulls out when you pedal hard, tighten the bracket a little. If you have to force your foot in, loosen it.
If you switch between thin and thick shoes, set the tension for the thicker pair and check that the thinner pair still stays put. If no single setting works for both, one pair may be outside the standard size.
Compatible pedals
Power Grips mount on metal cage pedals that accept toe clips and straps. Classic double-sided touring pedals, such as the MKS Sylvan Touring, are a good match; see cage pedals for options.
Modern pinned flat pedals usually lack suitable mounting points, and plastic pedals are not what Power Grips specify. If your bike has flats you want to keep, look at strap systems designed for platforms in the toe clips and straps guide, such as the Wellgo W8 double straps.
If you are buying new pedals for the straps, check the thread: most adult cranks take 9/16” pedals, and the left pedal is reverse threaded.
How it compares with toe clips and clipless
The power strap is easier to enter and exit than a toe clip and strap, and it works with more shoes, because there is no clip to size. A toe clip with a tight strap holds harder, which is why track riders still use them.
Clipless pedals are more precise again, but need cycling shoes and cleats.
Check the mounting bolts after the first few rides and every few months after, and replace a strap that starts to crack or fray.
Alternatives to consider
Power Grips XL Strap Set
The same power strap, longer, for boots and shoes over 12 inches around
MKS Cage Clip Half
A strapless half clip if you only want to stop your foot sliding forward
MKS Stainless Steel Cage Toe Clips (Large)
A classic clip and strap for a firmer hold
Restrap Horizontal Pedal Straps
A horizontal strap for pedals with openings on either side, made from recycled seatbelt webbing
Power Grips Strap Set, Standard: FAQ
What is a power strap?
A power strap is a single diagonal strap that holds your foot on the pedal without a toe clip or cleat. Power Grips popularized the design; it tightens when your foot points straight ahead and loosens when you angle your heel out.
Do Power Grips fit plastic or flat pedals?
Power Grips specify metal cage pedals that accept toe clips and straps. Most plastic and modern pinned flat pedals are not suitable; look at cage pedals or another strap system.
How tight should Power Grips be?
Tight enough that your shoe stays put when your foot is straight, loose enough that you can slide in with your toe angled inward. Adjust the bracket a little at a time with a 4mm Allen key.