Guides
Care & tools
Updated · Independent guide · 6 picks compared
Quick answer
The best pedal removal tool is a dedicated 15 mm pedal wrench such as the Park Tool PW-5, because its thin head fits the narrow flats and its long handle gives leverage. If your pedals have no wrench flats, use a long 6 mm or 8 mm hex key from behind the crank. For either tool, turn the top of the tool toward the back of the bike to loosen both pedals, since the left pedal is reverse-threaded.
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Chosen from current models on manufacturer specs, compatibility and design — not sponsored placements. Amazon buttons open a search for the exact model.
Best for: Home mechanics swapping pedals a few times a year
A 15 mm pedal wrench with a thin head that slips between the pedal body and the crank, and a handle long enough for normal removal. It covers the large majority of pedals with wrench flats.
Best for: Workshops, fleets and anyone fighting a seized pedal
Park's shop-grade 15 mm wrench has a longer handle than the PW-5, so you get more leverage on a pedal that has been in for years. It is the one to buy if you work on other people's bikes.
Best for: Mechanics who also see older pedals with 9/16" flats
A double-ended pedal wrench with a 15 mm opening at one end and a 9/16" opening at the other. The second size covers older pedals that do not take a 15 mm wrench.
by Pedro's
Best for: Riders who want a sturdy 15 mm pedal wrench from another workshop brand
Pedro's makes a dedicated 15 mm pedal wrench with a thin head for pedal flats. It does the same job as the Park Tool wrenches; choose whichever handle and grip you prefer.
Best for: Pedals with an 8 mm hex socket and no wrench flats
Many road and flat pedals have no 15 mm flats, only a hex socket in the spindle end. A long single-size hex wrench gives more leverage than a folding multi-tool. Check whether your pedal needs 6 mm or 8 mm before buying.
Best for: Fitting pedals to the maker's torque, especially on carbon cranks
A ratcheting click-type torque wrench covering 10 to 60 N·m, which spans common pedal specs. Use it with a hex bit, or with a 15 mm crowfoot head for pedals with wrench flats.
Swipe sideways on mobile. "—" means not applicable or not confirmed by the manufacturer.
| Model | Fits | Type | Best for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Park Tool PW-5 Home Mechanic Pedal Wrench | 15 mm flats | Pedal wrench | Home use | Check price |
| Park Tool PW-4 Professional Pedal Wrench | 15 mm flats | Long pedal wrench | Shop use, seized pedals | Check price |
| Park Tool PW-3 Pedal Wrench | 15 mm and 9/16" flats | Double-ended pedal wrench | Mixed old and new bikes | Check price |
| Pedro's Pedal Wrench | 15 mm flats | Pedal wrench | Home and shop use | Check price |
| Park Tool HT-8 8 mm Hex Wrench | 8 mm hex socket | Long hex wrench | Hex-only pedals | Check price |
| Park Tool TW-6.2 Torque Wrench | 3/8" drive (hex bit or crowfoot) | Torque wrench | Correct installation torque | Check price |
Look at your pedal first: if it has two flat faces on the spindle between the pedal body and the crank, you need a 15 mm pedal wrench. If it has a hex socket in the end of the spindle (seen from behind the crank arm), you need a 6 mm or 8 mm hex key. Many pedals have both.
Compared with a normal 15 mm spanner, a pedal wrench has:
Older pedals on some vintage and kids’ bikes take a 9/16” wrench instead; the Park Tool PW-3 has both sizes.
Hex-only pedals are common on lightweight road and flat pedals. Use a long, single-size hex wrench, not a multi-tool, and push it fully into the socket before applying force so it does not round out.
A torque wrench is optional for most riders but worth it on carbon cranks. Pedals need much more torque than stem or seatpost bolts, so a small 2–14 N·m wrench will not reach. Choose one that covers the pedal maker’s figure, such as the Park Tool TW-6.2 (10–60 N·m). For pedals with flats, add a 15 mm crowfoot head; for hex pedals, a hex bit.
Turn the top of the tool toward the back of the bike to loosen, on both sides. The right (drive-side) pedal has a normal thread and loosens counterclockwise; the left pedal is reverse-threaded and loosens clockwise when viewed from that side.
| Pedal | Thread | Loosen | Tighten |
|---|---|---|---|
| Right (drive side) | Normal (right-hand) | Counterclockwise | Clockwise |
| Left (non-drive side) | Reverse (left-hand) | Clockwise | Counterclockwise |
Directions are judged from outside the bike. With a hex key from behind the crank you view it from the other side, so stick with the “toward the back” rule. Why the left pedal is reverse-threaded: which pedal is reverse threaded.
A stuck pedal usually comes free with better leverage, penetrating oil and patience. Work through these steps in order:
Once it is out, clean and inspect both threads; the guide covers stripped-thread repairs.
Grease, start by hand, then tighten firmly. Pedals marked L and R go on the matching side.
| Bike / pedal | Likely tool |
|---|---|
| Most flat and SPD pedals | 15 mm pedal wrench, often also 6 mm or 8 mm hex |
| Lightweight road pedals | 8 mm (sometimes 6 mm) hex, sometimes 15 mm flats |
| Kids’, BMX and cruiser bikes with one-piece cranks | 15 mm pedal wrench (1/2” pedal thread) |
| Older or vintage pedals | 15 mm or 9/16” pedal wrench |
Replacing pedals too? See clipless pedals, flat pedals and, for bent pedals, pedal spindles.
A 15 mm pedal wrench for pedals with wrench flats, or a 6 mm or 8 mm hex key for pedals with a hex socket in the spindle end. Many pedals accept both.
Sometimes. A standard combination wrench is often too thick to fit the narrow flats between pedal and crank, and too short for a tight pedal. A dedicated pedal wrench is thinner and longer.
Turn the top of the tool toward the back of the bike to loosen either pedal. The right pedal loosens counterclockwise and the left (reverse-threaded) pedal loosens clockwise. Full detail in our reverse-thread guide.
Usually 6 mm or 8 mm, inserted into the end of the spindle from behind the crank arm. Some pedals take only one size, so check yours.
Use the pedal maker's figure. Shimano, for example, specifies 35–55 N·m for its pedals. Without a torque wrench, tighten firmly with a pedal wrench but do not stand on it.
It is not essential for most riders, but it helps on carbon cranks. You need one that reaches the pedal maker's figure, plus a crowfoot or hex bit.