How magnetic pedals work
Magnetic pedals use a strong permanent magnet set into the middle of a platform pedal, plus a steel plate that bolts to your shoe where an SPD cleat would go. Put your foot down roughly in place and the magnet pulls the plate onto the pedal. To get off, twist your heel or lift your foot with more force than the magnet holds.
There is no spring, no jaw and no cleat engagement. The result sits between flat pedals and clipless pedals. Your foot stays located on the pedal over bumps and you can pull up a little, but you can also leave the pedal in any direction.
The magnet’s rating in newtons (N) is the pull-off force. 150N is roughly the force needed to lift a 15 kg weight, and 200N roughly a 20 kg weight. Magped notes that real-world hold also depends on magnet size, dirt, wear and the direction you pull. A straight vertical pull meets the full force, while a twisting or rolling exit takes less effort.
How to choose magnetic bicycle pedals
Pick the magnet strength first, then the pedal body for your riding.
Magnet strength: 100N, 150N or 200N
Match the magnet to your body weight and how rough you ride. Magped’s published guidance:
| Model |
100N |
150N |
200N |
| Enduro2 |
Not offered |
Riders up to 80 kg |
Riders over 75 kg |
| Sport2 |
Riders up to 65 kg |
Riders 65–90 kg |
Riders over 75 kg, or enduro use |
The ranges overlap on purpose. A lighter magnet is easier to leave in a panic. A heavier one stays put through rock gardens and over drops. If you’re new to any kind of retention, start one step lighter and move up if your feet bounce off.
Shoe compatibility
You need a shoe with 2-bolt SPD-style cleat holes. The steel plate bolts on with 2 screws in the same slots as a Shimano SPD cleat.
Magped recommends flat-soled SPD shoes with a fine to medium tread. The plate has to sit close enough to the magnet to make contact, and very deep lugs can hold it away. Stiff, recessed-cleat mountain bike shoes are the usual choice. 3-bolt road shoes (Look Keo, Shimano SPD-SL) don’t accept the plate.
Choose a bigger platform with longer pins for trail riding, and a smaller, lighter body for gravel and XC.
The Enduro2’s SWITCH pins can be set at two lengths, so you can run them short for commuting or long for steep trails. The Sport2 has 6 replaceable pins per side. Pins matter because they hold your foot when the plate isn’t centered on the magnet. See pedal pins if you need spares or longer ones.
Weight and riding style
Magnetic pedals are heavier than most clipless pedals because the magnet adds mass. Magped lists the Enduro2 at 447 g (150N) and 477 g (200N) per pair without pins, and the Sport2 at 420 to 458 g depending on magnet. If grams matter, the Ultra2 uses a magnesium body and titanium spindle.
Thread and fitting
Magped pedals use the standard 9/16” x 20 TPI thread found on adult three-piece and e-bike cranks. The left pedal is reverse threaded; see which pedal is reverse threaded before you fit them.
Who magnetic cycling pedals suit
Magnetic pedals make the most sense for riders who want more connection than flats but don’t want to be locked in.
- Riders between flats and clipless. Your foot stays put over bumps, but you can always step off.
- Nervous or returning riders. There’s no clip-out technique to learn before your first stop.
- Riders with knee concerns. A spring binding holds the foot at a set angle until you twist out. A magnet doesn’t latch, which some riders with knee problems prefer. Check with a bike fitter or physio if pain is the reason.
- Commuters and e-bike riders. Stop-start traffic is easier when exits don’t need a precise twist, and the pinned platform works with normal shoes too.
- Trail riders who struggle with foot placement on flats. The magnet helps your foot find the same spot after every bump.
Limits of magnetic pedals
Magnetic pedals don’t replace clipless pedals for everyone. Know the trade-offs before you buy.
- No mechanical lock. Magped itself says there’s no firm connection comparable to clipless. A hard yank on a sprint or a big compression can pull a foot free.
- Limited pull-up. You can lift the pedal through the upstroke a little, but not with the full pull a clipless pedal allows.
- Ferrous debris. Magnets collect iron filings, steel shavings and magnetic grit. A layer of muck between magnet and plate reduces the hold.
- Plate wear. The plate takes contact on every stroke. Inspect it and replace it when worn so the hold stays consistent.
- Extra weight. Expect more weight than a comparable clipless pedal.
If you want a positive lock with a platform for walking shoes, look at double-sided clipless pedals with a platform instead.
Magnetic pedals vs clipless vs flat pedals
|
Flat pedals |
Magnetic pedals |
Clipless pedals |
| Shoe |
Any flat sole |
2-bolt SPD-style + steel plate |
2-bolt or 3-bolt + cleat |
| Retention |
Grip and pins only |
Magnet pull + pins |
Mechanical lock |
| Release |
Lift foot |
Twist or pull hard, any direction |
Twist heel out |
| Pull-up |
None |
Limited |
Full |
| Learning curve |
None |
Short |
Moderate |
Setting up magnetic pedals
- Fit the pedals. Grease the threads and tighten them with a pedal spanner or hex key, remembering the left pedal is reverse threaded.
- Mount the plates. Bolt the steel plates into the cleat slots, positioned under the ball of the foot like an SPD cleat. Tighten the screws firmly and check them after the first ride.
- Set your pins. Start with shorter pins and lengthen them if your foot shifts.
- Practice exits. Ride slowly on grass and practice leaving the pedal by twisting and by lifting. Learn how much force your magnet needs before you need it in a hurry.
- Keep them clean. Wipe the magnet and plate after muddy rides, and pick out any metallic grit stuck to the magnet.
For Magped’s full range and how the models differ, see our Magped brand page.