When to shim SPD cleats
Shim an SPD cleat when the shoe touches the pedal before the cleat does. A 2-bolt cleat sits recessed in the sole, and if the tread lugs around it are deep or soft, they can hold the cleat off the binding.
Signs you need a shim:
- Clipping in takes several stamps, or feels vague.
- The shoe rocks side to side on the pedal even when clipped in.
- Unclipping is inconsistent, because the tread is dragging on the pedal.
- The pedal body or cage is wearing marks into the tread.
Soft soles and deep lugs
Mountain bike shoes with deep, soft rubber tread are the classic case. Mud makes it worse. A shim lifts the cleat closer to the tread surface so it engages first. Crankbrothers’ Cleat Tool has tread-depth gauges for exactly this check; see cleat fitment.
Pedal body contact
Pedals with a platform or cage around the binding, such as Crankbrothers Mallet DH and Candy 1 or Shimano trail pedals, are designed to support the shoe. That only works if the cleat still engages fully. Crankbrothers Shoe Shields and Shimano’s SPD cleat spacers are made for this; see the Crankbrothers brand page for its pedals.
Leg-length differences
A measured leg-length difference is the other reason to shim, and the fix is to lift the shorter leg’s cleat. Get the difference measured by a fitter: shimming a guess can create a problem you didn’t have. BikeFit’s 2-hole shim is 3 mm, and its instructions advise against stacking more than two under a 2-bolt cleat.
How to choose cleat hardware
Compatibility
Hardware follows the cleat’s bolt pattern:
- 2-bolt (SPD, Crankbrothers, Time ATAC): Crankbrothers Shoe Shields, Shimano SPD cleat spacers, BikeFit 2-hole shims and wedges.
- 3-bolt (SPD-SL, Look Keo): Shimano SM-SH20 spacers, Look’s flat-sole spacer, BikeFit 3-hole wedges.
- 4-hole (Speedplay): M4 x 0.7 screws such as the BikeFit 13mm Speedplay screws.
Check the cleat compatibility chart if you’re unsure what your cleat is.
Thickness and stacking
Thin is better. Every millimeter of shim moves your foot away from the pedal axle and raises it, which changes saddle height slightly. On 2-bolt cleats, stacked shims also leave less of the bolt in the nut plate.
Bolt length
Add the shim thickness to your current bolt length. A bolt that bottoms out before the head clamps the cleat leaves the cleat loose; a bolt with only a couple of turns of thread engagement can strip.
How to fit an SPD cleat shim
- Mark the cleat’s position by tracing around it on the sole.
- Remove the cleat bolts and the cleat. Keep the nut plate inside the shoe in place.
- Place the shim under the cleat, lined up with the bolt holes.
- Fit longer bolts if needed (current length plus shim thickness).
- Line the cleat up with your marks and tighten evenly to the torque in your pedal or cleat instructions.
- Test engagement on both pedals: it should click in crisply and the shoe shouldn’t rock.
Cleat bolts and nut plates
2-bolt SPD-style cleats use M5 bolts that thread into a sliding nut plate inside the shoe, under the insole. If a nut plate thread is damaged, Shimano sells the SM-SH51 cleat with its cleat nut, which gives you a fresh plate. Many riders keep a spare set of bolts in the tool kit; a lost cleat bolt can end a ride.
3-bolt road cleats use M5 bolts into threaded inserts in the sole. If you add Shimano’s SM-SH20 spacers, use the longer bolts in the kit.
Speedplay screws
Wahoo Speedplay cleats fasten with four M4 x 0.7 screws into a 4-hole sole or into the 3-hole adapter. Grit packed into the screw heads and overtightening are the usual causes of stripped heads; the BikeFit screw page covers length choice and removal. Covers keep the heads clean; see cleat covers and the Standard Tension cleat page.
Shims for road cleats
Road cleats are shimmed for leg length or fit rather than tread clearance. Shimano’s SM-SH20 set stacks from 1 mm to 5 mm under SPD-SL cleats. Look’s 1.5 mm Spacer for Flat Sole fills the gap between a Keo cleat and a very flat sole, which stops creaking. For angle rather than height, use wedges; see cleat fitment.