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Updated · Independent guide · 8 picks compared
Quick answer
For bike pedal grease, use a quality bicycle bearing grease such as Park Tool PolyLube 1000 on both the pedal threads and the pedal bearings. Grease on the threads stops the steel spindle seizing in the crank and makes the pedals easy to remove later. Use anti-seize instead on titanium spindles, keep thin oil for the clip mechanism only, and clean pedals with a mild degreaser kept away from the bearing seals.
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Best for: Pedal threads, pedal bearings and general home servicing
Park Tool's polyurea grease is the default in a lot of workshops. Park rates it NLGI Grade 2 with a working range of -34°C to 245°C, says it repels moisture, mixes with conventional greases and will not harm carbon fiber. The 4 oz tube is the right size for a home toolbox.
Best for: Riders servicing several bikes, or packing hubs and bottom brackets as well as pedals
The same PolyLube 1000 in a 16 oz tub, four times the tube. It suits anyone who fills a grease gun or works on a family's worth of bikes; keep the lid closed and use a clean brush so grit stays out.
Best for: Pedal bearings on bikes ridden in rain, mud and winter
Park's premium grease is described as highly water resistant with strong adherence and long lubrication life. It is rated NLGI Grade 2 with a wider working range than PolyLube (-29°C to 282°C), and Park says it is safe on carbon fiber.
by Phil Wood
Best for: Cup-and-cone pedal bearings and riders who want a proven, sticky grease
Phil Wood's grease has been a workshop staple for decades and is sold mainly in a 3 oz tube with a resealable threaded cap. It is a good match for loose-ball pedals such as Shimano SPD models and MKS pedals.
Best for: Rebuilding Shimano SPD and SPD-SL axle units
Shimano's own service grease (sometimes labeled Dura-Ace grease) is the one its manuals call for. Retailers describe it as water-repellent and safe for rubber seals. The 100 g tube covers many pedal rebuilds.
by Finish Line
Best for: Shops and home mechanics who want a waterproof grease in larger sizes
Finish Line describes its Premium Grease as fully waterproof, with rust and corrosion inhibitors and extreme-pressure additives. It comes in a 3.5 oz tube plus 1 lb and 4 lb tubs. Older stock may be labeled "with Teflon"; the current version uses Finish Line's Trilinium formula.
Best for: Titanium pedal spindles and threads that must come apart years later
Anti-seize stops dissimilar metals galling or corroding together. Park lists ASC-1 for steel, aluminum and titanium and names pedal and bottom-bracket threads as ideal uses. Do not put it in bearings.
by Muc-Off
Best for: Cutting old grease and grime off pedal bodies, cleats and clip mechanisms
A spray-on degreaser that rinses off with water. Use it on the pedal body and clip mechanism, not aimed at the bearing seals, then dry and re-lube the mechanism.
Swipe sideways on mobile. "—" means not applicable or not confirmed by the manufacturer.
| Model | Type | Key spec | Size | Use it on | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Park Tool PolyLube 1000 (PPL-1 tube) | Polyurea grease | NLGI 2; -34°C to 245°C | 4 oz (113 g) tube | Threads, bearings, press fits | Check price |
| Park Tool PolyLube 1000 (PPL-2 tub) | Polyurea grease | NLGI 2; -34°C to 245°C | 16 oz tub | Threads, bearings, press fits | Check price |
| Park Tool HPG-1 High Performance Grease | High-performance grease | NLGI 2; -29°C to 282°C | 4 oz (113 g) tube | Bearings in wet conditions | Check price |
| Phil Wood Waterproof Grease | Waterproof bearing grease | Waterproof formula | 3 oz tube | Bearings, threads | Check price |
| Shimano Premium Grease | Bearing grease | Water-repellent; seal-safe | 100 g tube | Shimano bearings, threads | Check price |
| Finish Line Premium Grease | Waterproof grease | Extreme-pressure additives | 3.5 oz tube; 1 lb and 4 lb tubs | Threads, bearings | Check price |
| Park Tool ASC-1 Anti-Seize Compound | Anti-seize compound | For steel, aluminum and titanium | 4 oz (113 g) tube | Pedal threads (esp. titanium) | Check price |
| Muc-Off Bio Drivetrain Cleaner | Degreaser | Water-rinsable | — | Pedal bodies, cleats, mechanisms | Check price |
Choose a bicycle bearing grease for threads and bearings, anti-seize for titanium, and a degreaser for cleaning. One tube of good grease covers almost every pedal job.
Any quality bike grease works on pedal threads. The job is to stop the spindle seizing in the crank, not to lubricate something moving, so a general-purpose grease such as PolyLube 1000 is ideal.
Bearings need a grease that stays put and resists water. NLGI Grade 2 (a medium consistency) is the common choice; both Park Tool PolyLube 1000 and HPG-1 are rated Grade 2. If you ride in heavy rain or winter, pick a grease sold as highly water resistant or waterproof.
Titanium spindles need anti-seize, not grease. Titanium can gall against the crank’s threads, and anti-seize compound keeps the joint separable.
Carbon cranks have a metal threaded insert, so you still grease the pedal threads as normal. Park Tool states PolyLube 1000 and HPG-1 will not harm carbon fiber. Keep friction paste (Park Tool SAC-2 and similar) for seatposts and stems; it is not for threads.
A tube keeps grease clean and is enough for a few bikes. A tub, such as the PolyLube 1000 16 oz tub, suits home workshops that pack hubs and bottom brackets or refill a grease gun.
Greasing the threads is the single most useful pedal habit. A steel spindle in an aluminum crank is a pairing of different metals, and with water and road salt they can corrode together until the pedal will not come out.
Grease does three jobs:
How to do it: wipe the crank threads clean, put a thin ring of grease around the pedal threads (a dab the size of a pea is plenty), then thread the pedal in by hand before tightening. Remember the left pedal is reverse-threaded; our reverse-thread guide shows the direction and torque.
Do not use thread-locker on pedals unless the maker tells you to. Pedals are designed to stay tight through their thread direction, and a locked thread is hard to remove.
Use grease for threads and bearings, oil only for the clip mechanism, and anti-seize for titanium.
| Product | Use on | Avoid on |
|---|---|---|
| Bearing grease | Pedal threads, pedal bearings and bushings | Clip mechanism springs (attracts grit) |
| Light oil or dry lube | Clip mechanism pivots and springs; cleat contact points | Bearings (washes out, does not seal) |
| Anti-seize | Titanium spindle threads; threads you want to undo years later | Bearings |
| Water-displacing spray | Freeing stuck parts, drying after a wash | Bearings, as a substitute for grease |
| Degreaser | Pedal bodies, cleats, mechanisms | Bearing seals and inside bearings |
Service pedal bearings when they feel rough, notchy or loose. Spin each pedal by hand: it should turn smoothly with no side-to-side play.
The approach depends on the bearing type:
Pack bearings generously; spare grease acts as a seal against water. If the spindle is bent, see pedal spindles for replacement options. You will also need a pedal wrench or hex key to remove the pedals first.
Clean pedals and cleats with warm soapy water and a brush, using degreaser only where grime is caked on. Clip-in problems usually start with dirt in the mechanism.
For flat pedals, clean around the pins and check they are all present; see pedal pins if any are missing.
Yes. A thin coat of grease on the pedal threads stops the steel spindle seizing or corroding into an aluminum crank, helps the pedal tighten fully and makes it easy to remove later. Use anti-seize instead on titanium spindles.
Any good bicycle bearing grease works for both threads and bearings. Park Tool PolyLube 1000 is a sound default; choose a more water-resistant grease such as Park HPG-1 or Phil Wood if you ride in the wet.
Use the original WD-40 to displace water or help free a stuck pedal, not as a lubricant. It is a thin, solvent-based spray that can wash grease out of the bearings, so re-grease afterward.
Anti-seize. Titanium can gall (cold-weld) against the crank threads, and anti-seize such as Park Tool ASC-1 prevents that better than grease.
A clean, general-purpose grease will work on pedal threads. For bearings, a bicycle grease is the safer choice because makers state compatibility with seals and carbon parts, and the tube sizes suit bike work.
When they feel rough, gritty or loose, or after a very wet season. Riders who pressure-wash their bikes or ride through winter usually need to service pedals more often.
Clean the cleat and the pedal's contact surfaces, check the cleat bolts are tight, then apply a little dry lube to the contact points and the clip mechanism. Worn cleats squeak more, so replace them if they are rounded off; see cleats.