Who it's for
Good fit
- Riders greasing pedal threads when fitting or swapping pedals
- Home mechanics re-packing pedal, hub or headset bearings
- Anyone who wants one grease for nearly every bike job
Look elsewhere if
- Titanium spindle threads (use anti-seize such as Park Tool ASC-1)
- Carbon seatpost or stem clamp areas (use a friction paste)
- Shops and busy home workshops that will get through a tube quickly (the 16 oz tub suits them better)
Compatibility
- Pedal threads
- Yes, 9/16" and 1/2" (steel spindles)
- Pedal bearings
- Cup-and-cone, cartridge bearings and bushings
- Other bike uses
- Ball bearings, threads and press fits (headsets, bottom brackets, cranks, hubs)
- Carbon parts
- Will not harm carbon fiber (Park Tool)
- Titanium threads
- Use anti-seize instead
- Clip mechanism springs
- Not ideal; use a light oil or dry lube
Pros and cons
Pros
- One grease covers pedal threads, bearings and press fits
- NLGI Grade 2 consistency stays in bearings without being stiff
- Wide working temperature range for year-round use
- Park states it is safe on carbon fiber and mixes with conventional greases
Cons
- Not marketed as Park's most water-resistant grease (that is HPG-1)
- Not a substitute for anti-seize on titanium
- A tube runs out fast if you re-pack hubs and bottom brackets regularly
What it is
PolyLube 1000 is Park Tool’s everyday bicycle grease, and the PPL-1 is the 4 oz (113 g) tube. Park developed it for bike maintenance and lists it for any ball bearing, thread or press fit: headsets, bottom brackets, cranks, pedals and hubs.
It is a polyurea grease with a working range of -30°F to 473°F (-34°C to 245°C). The NLGI Grade 2 rating means a medium consistency: firm enough to stay in a bearing, soft enough to spread easily on threads.
Park also states it repels moisture, is compatible with conventional greases (so you do not have to clean out every trace of the old grease before re-packing) and will not harm carbon fiber.
Using PolyLube 1000 on pedals
PolyLube 1000 covers both pedal jobs: the threads and the bearings.
Pedal threads
Grease the threads every time you fit a pedal. A steel spindle in an aluminum crank can corrode into place, and a thin film of grease prevents it.
- Clean the crank threads and the pedal threads with a rag.
- Squeeze a small ring of grease around the pedal threads. A pea-sized amount is plenty.
- Thread the pedal in by hand for several turns, then tighten. Remember the left pedal is reverse-threaded; our reverse-thread guide shows direction and torque.
If you use a pedal washer, smear a little grease on both faces of the washer too.
Pedal bearings
When a pedal feels gritty or rough, clean out the old grease and re-pack it.
- Cup-and-cone pedals (most Shimano and MKS pedals): fill the bearing races generously before refitting the balls, then adjust the cone for free spin with no play.
- Cartridge bearing and bushing pedals (Crankbrothers and many flat pedals): grease the bushing and the spindle before sliding the body back on.
Extra grease helps keep water out. If you find the spindle is bent during the service, see pedal spindles for replacement options.
Setup and use notes
The tube keeps grease clean: apply from the nozzle, wipe it and cap it straight away, because grit in grease ends up in your bearings.
Keep the right product for the right job. Titanium spindles need anti-seize (Park makes ASC-1); carbon seatposts and stems need a friction paste (Park makes SAC-2). Clipless mechanisms prefer a light oil or dry lube, because grease on the springs collects grit.
How it compares
PolyLube 1000 is the generalist. Choose Park’s HPG-1 if your bearings face constant rain and winter salt, Shimano Premium Grease if you are rebuilding Shimano pedals to Shimano’s manual, or Phil Wood if you prefer a classic sticky grease for loose-ball bearings.
For the full comparison, including anti-seize and cleaners, see our guide to bike pedal grease, lube and cleaners. For the tools you will need to remove pedals before greasing, see pedal removal tools.
Tube or tub?
Most riders only need the tube. If you look after several bikes or regularly re-pack hubs and bottom brackets, the same grease in the 16 oz PPL-2 tub makes more sense. See the Park Tool brand page for the rest of the range.
Alternatives to consider
Park Tool HPG-1 High Performance Grease
Park's premium grease, described as highly water resistant, with a higher top temperature (282°C). Better for wet-weather bearings.
Phil Wood Waterproof Grease
A long-standing workshop favorite for cup-and-cone bearings, sold in a 3 oz tube.
Shimano Premium Grease
The grease Shimano's manuals call for; a natural choice when rebuilding Shimano pedal axle units.
Finish Line Premium Grease
Waterproof grease with extreme-pressure additives, in a 3.5 oz tube or larger tubs.
Park Tool PolyLube 1000 Lubricant PPL-1: FAQ
What is PolyLube 1000?
It is Park Tool's general-purpose bicycle grease: a polyurea grease rated NLGI Grade 2 with a -34°C to 245°C working range, made for bearings, threads and press fits.
Can I use PolyLube 1000 on pedal threads?
Yes. A thin coat on steel pedal threads stops them seizing in the crank and makes removal easy. For titanium spindles, use anti-seize instead. See which pedal is reverse threaded for the fitting steps.
Is PolyLube 1000 safe on carbon?
Park Tool states it will not harm carbon fiber, so it is fine for pedal threads in carbon cranks (which have metal inserts). It is not a friction paste, so do not use it on carbon clamp areas.
What is the difference between PPL-1 and PPL-2?
Only the size. PPL-1 is the 4 oz tube; PPL-2 is the same grease in a 16 oz tub for workshops.